Indigo dyeing, called jjok (쪽) in Korean, originated in India and traveled to Korea through China. The dyeing has a long and rich history in Korea, dating back to at least the Three Kingdoms period (from c. 57 BCE to 668 CE), the kingdoms of Silla, Goguryeo, and Baekje. During this time, the use of natural dyes became widespread in both courtly and everyday life. They obtained "red, from safflowers; yellow, from gardenias; blue, from indigo; white, from ash water; and black, from ... maple trees and pomegranate fruits.  Dyeing, including indigo dyeing, was regulated by the government to produce clothing and for celebratory occasions.1 Commoners wore indigo garments, but depending on the tone and quality of the dye, they were also favored by scholars and aristocrats for their elegance and symbolism of calmness and introspection.2

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The Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) is best known for its improvements in ceramics and Buddhist art -- as well as textiles, including naturally dyed fabrics, which were highly appreciated, particularly for their use in Buddhist monastic robes and noble dresses.3  Indigo-dyed fabrics were valued not only for their aesthetic qualities but also for their "perceived protective and purifying properties," which resonated with  Confucian and Buddhist symbolic systems (Fig. 1).4

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During the Joseon dynasty (1392–1897), indigo dyeing flourished under Neo-Confucian aesthetics, emphasizing simplicity, natural materials, and muted colors. Indigo became a visual manifestation of these values, particularly for scholars (Fig. 2) who aligned their appearance with philosophical ideals. However, the industry began to decline in the late 19th and early 20th centuries due to the influx of Western textiles and manufactured dyes introduced during the Japanese invasion (1910–1945).5  The suppression of Korean artisanal practices and the modernization of textile production led to a sharp decline in traditional dyeing practices.

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Recent decades have seen a revival of interest in Korean indigo dyeing as part of a broader movement to reclaim traditional crafts and ecological methods. Contemporary Korean artisans, artists, and cultural heritage organizations have worked to preserve jjokyeom (쪽염) through workshops, exhibitions, and documentation efforts. Today, indigo dyeing is celebrated not only for its aesthetic qualities but also for its environmental sustainability and cultural significance. This revival reflects a growing appreciation for slow processes, natural materials, and traditional knowledge in the face of globalized mass production.6

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Natural indigo has been used as a valuable treatment in Korean traditional medicine. The 100% organic indigo dye offers medicinal outcomes; it shows anti-bacterial, deodorization, and cooling effects with insect-repellent results. Indigo products are useful for heat-related symptoms (like skin burning) as the indigo dye lowers rising temperatures. It also prevents skin irritation and allergic reactions.6 

 

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References

1. Korean Cultural Center New York, “Natural Dyeing,” Korean Cultural Center New York, May 23, 2024, https://www.koreanculture.org/gallery-korea/2003/9/10/natural-dyeing. 
2. Hyung Il Pai. Heritage Management in Korea and Japan: The Politics of Antiquity and Identity. Seattle: University of Washington Press, 2013, 112.

3. Lena Kim. Textiles of the Goryeo Dynasty. Seoul: National Museum of Korea, 2011, 38–41.

4. Hongnam Kim. “Color Symbolism in Goryeo Buddhist Art.” Artibus Asiae 59, no. 1/2 (1999): 89–92.

5. Jungwon Kim. “Colonial Modernity and the Transformation of Textile Industries in Korea.” East Asian Cultural Studies, vol. 7, no. 2, 2004, 88–90.

6. Jang Sou Jou, “Korean Indigo Story,” Kindigo Global, accessed April 29, 2025, https://kindigoglobal.imweb.me/indigostory.