Jjok leaves soaking in a jar of water. The first step in the traditional dye-making process.
Jjok leaves soaking in a jar of water. The first step in the traditional dye-making process.
Jjok leaves soaking in a jar of water. The first step in the traditional dye-making process.
The jjok leaves are removed once the mixture turns jade in color.
Oyster shell powder is added to the jjok liquid.
Stirring a jar of the jjok liquid in the dye-making process.
Niram, the thick material used in the jjok dye fermentation process.
Dyeing fabric with the jjok dye.
Traditional Indigo Dye Making &
Dyeing Process
"Chemical-free, earth-friendly, and labor-intensive process"
The process of making traditional Korean indigo dye and the dyeing are chemical-free, earth-friendly, and labor-intensive. It involves multiple immersions, during which cloth transforms from green to blue upon exposure to air — a chemical reaction indicating the oxidation of indigo. Traditionally, this process was done without synthetic additives, relying on natural fermentation and organic materials such as ash lye, seashell, or Korean rice wine.
Traditional Indigo (jjok, 쪽) Dye Making Process
- Soak the harvested indigo ( jjok, 쪽) leaves in a large earthenware pot and pour water. (The leaves are harvested before the flowers blossom around July or August.)
- After two or three days, the water turns the color of jade. Then, remove the jjok leaves and add oyster shell powder. (* Oyster shells are heated in a kiln at over 1,000°C and then grind it into powder. Some use Korean rice wine or ash lye instead of oyster shell powder as nutrients for fermentation.)
- The jade water will turn blue and form navy colored foam.
The blue pigment is formed from insoluble material sunk. After the pigment has settled, pour clear water.
- Finally, about 100 days later, we obtain thick material called niram (니람) from process 4. The niram is stored in a pot in a shady, cool place until needed. Niram (니람): The ni means “mud,” and ram is “indigo” in Chinese characters.
Traditional Indigo (jjok, 쪽) Dyeing Process
- Prepare the cloth by washing it with neutral detergent to remove the impurities.
- Put the cloth into the indigo (jjok) dye liquid and remove it after 3–5 minutes. (* The yellowish green turns blue when exposed to the air.)
- To obtain a darker blue, dye the cloth repeatedly.
- Meticulously rinse the dyed cloth with water to remove the lye. (* If the lye is not completely removed, the blue will easily be bleached.)
- Wash it with neutral detergent and dry. Now, the dyed cloth is ready to use.
References
Kyung-ja Lee. “Korean Indigo Dyeing Techniques and Cultural Significance.” Journal of Korean Traditional Crafts, vol. 18, 2010, 27–30.
Jennis Kang, Gwangju News. “Living to Dye: Indigo Master, Jung Kwan-Chae.” Gwangju News, September 3, 2021. https://gwangjunewsgic.com/features/profile/master-jung/.
*Process images: Jung Kwan-chae (정관채), a living human cultural asset for fabric dyeing: National Intangible Cultural Asset No. 115, performs the dye-making and dyeing process.
Photos from the Korean Heritage Agency
Bolts of fabric dyed with jjok.